Prop shaft prep

Between five-hour trips (each way) back and forth to Northport to sort out Ariel's transmission issue, I managed to do a little work on the Alberg.

I spent a couple hours yesterday confirming measurements for the new prop shaft and sent a drawing and specifications to Marine Machining and Manufacturing here in Michigan. I'd gotten a quote some time ago from a place out of state that was about $200 more than the quote from the shop here, so I was happy to find a better price for the same service/product. The new shaft and coupling - faced, aligned, and spotted for the set screws - should come in right around $320 for a 1" SS shaft.

Sorting out the shaft length was made more stressful, however, when I tried to explain to the shop that I needed the propeller to end up somewhere between 27-1/4" to 27-1/2" from the coupling face, something that is apparently more difficult than it seems. I was told that determining where the prop will sit on the taper is a bit of a guessing game, which I can understand, but it would seem like it would be fairly straightforward to get close since the tapers should be standard. At any rate, the reason I need the prop to sit at that distance is because that's the "sweet spot" in the aperture where the rudder can swing stop to stop and the prop blades remain well clear. Too far forward or too far aft, and the blades will start shaving pieces off the rudder aperture. This prop, by the way, is a 13x9R fixed, three blade. Since I never sea trialed the boat, I don't know if the prop is even a good match for the engine. By accounts online and a few conversations with other owners and a shop, it sounds like it's close, though.

The propeller in its "sweet spot" and the fiberglass stern tube.

I also called Hamilton Marine and got the correct cutless bearing on its way (they'd previously shipped the wrong bearing). Once that and the new shaft arrive, I'll be able to set the stern tube and finalize the engine position.

To that end, once I'd gotten the measurements I needed for the prop, I made a few marks on the engine foundations where the transmission cooling hoses were rubbing. I then rigged up my hoist and lifted the engine off the beds and set it in the cockpit. I took an angle grinder with a flapper wheel to the two areas to carve out reliefs for clearance, then covered the areas with two layers of cloth. I also cleaned up the front ends of the beds and wrapped each with a layer of cloth to seal the corners.

Spurred by my frustration with Ariel's cramped engine installation, I double checked the angle of my install. The Westerbeke is rated for no more than a 14 degree installation. I did my best to keep the engine as flat as possible, but I was forced to work with the angle of the hole in the deadwood. Even so, the engine sits at 10.4 degrees. If I can coax it any lower when I finalize the stern tube installation, I will, provided I still have enough room on the flexible mounts for in-water alignment.

That's it for now. It's humid as all get out here, and I have to head back to Northport to install Ariel's new transmission, which should arrive later today. Fingers crossed. It'll be nice to have her back in service.

Project Video #2: Engine/Shaft Alignment

So, I started making videos primarily because I wanted to learn how to use Premiere. Now that's led to another Alberg 30 Project video. If there's an interest in these things, I just might keep them coming - provided I have new content ;).

Engine trial fit

So I moved the engine from the cockpit to the new foundations to see how it's going to fit. I'm pleased with the fit, but it's clear that there was a discrepancy between the technical drawings/measurements and the actual engine. The rear mounts are about a 1/2" farther aft than the mockup. I don't think that will be an issue, but the rear part of the foundation has minimal thickness due to the angle, and I'd really like to get at least 1" of thread into the foundations at the aftermost mounting hole. Hopefully I'll be able to do that.

A peek through the stern tube revealed the center of the output coupling, so I'm hoping that alignment is  pretty good. Since my stern tube will be permanently fixed in place with the aid of the prop shaft coupled to the engine, alignment shouldn't be too much of an issue.

The only issue that will need correction - at this point, at least - is a tight spot between two cooling hoses and the foundations. The hoses rub the foundations and will quickly chafe through with the engine's vibration, so I'm going to have to grind out a portion of the foundations port and starboard to give the hoses more clearance. I'm not too keen on messing up my fiberglassing job, but I guess there's no other choice.

With regard to building the engine box, I was hoping that the engine would sit far enough aft that I'd be able to slope the front of the engine compartment aft a bit. I'm not sure just how much slope I'll be able to get at this point, but it's not looking like much. Aesthetically and practically, it would be good to have a gentle slope for the ladder to follow and to free up room in the "galley."